A Bit of Burgos

This weekend was going to be another 24 hour trip somewhere localish – and we decided to head south into Burgos province – and city.

With the aim of sleeping in Burgos city itself, we just about had enough light leaving lat afternoon to make a quick stop at the lovely Pozo Azul in the village of Covanera in the Rudrón gorges.  Easy parking in the village, we did the short signposted stroll to the Pozo, which is in fact the mouth of a huge deep underwater cave, and is a brilliant turquoise blue.  The friends who recommended it to us had had a great swim here on a van trip, but it wasn’t quite the night for it.  It’s pretty cool to just have a walk around it and contemplate how deep it is though!

Pozo Azul

We then headed on to Burgos, and managed to get a spot in the car park next to the Centro de Salud Santa Clara – free to park on Saturday afternoons and Sundays.  It was a bit of a squeeze parking as it’s used by cars too, and there was a good number of other motorhomes there, but it became much easier later on once the cars had dispersed a little.  We know Burgos city well and have visited many times, but we always enjoy a little walk along the river to see the main gate and the cathedral – both are pretty special all lit up at night (and of course highly recommendable visits during the day!).

The weather overnight was horrendous!  Storms, rain, thunder, the lot.  We knew this was going to be the case and that we were going to get a wet morning on the Sunday, but we’d come to Burgos to go indoors this time – to the Museum of Human Evolution.  We’d heard great things about this huge museum, and very much enjoyed a morning wandering around its displays – great building too and great rain cover indeed!

Museum of Human Evolution

We then had time to visit the monastery of La Cartuja de Miraflores, just on the outskirts of the city, and well signposted from the centre.  We were pretty enchanted by this place, still home to 20 monks who live in a mix of solitude and companionship in their solitary rooms around the cloister.  The visitable church has an impressive altarpiece and some incredibly intricately carved sarcophagi, as well as a beautiful painted chapel.  There’s plenty of parking space outside, and we decided this was a nice spot for lunch.

After lunch the rain stopped, and we decided to try and get a walk in on the way home.  We headed to Fuenteodra, near Peña Amaya, in northern Burgos, to see if we could find the waterfall we’d heard about there.  A nice walk through poppy fields and the odd orchid, and we found the waterfall – but despite the recent rain, not enough for the Castillian drought – it was dry!  All the same, a nice walk to some interesting sink holes, and the sun even tried to come out at one point!

On return to the van, we returned via the back roads, and had a nice surprise on briefly stopping in the small village of Robelledo de la Torre, which has a ruined tower, and also a beautiful 12th century Romanesque church – closed that late on a Sunday, but with some beautifully carved corbels – we’ll be back to investigate more (looked to be an interesting walk here too).

And one more stop – highly recommendable if you’re passing along the A67 and want a break – a sneaky G&T and croquetas at the quiet and refined bar of the Hotel Convento de Mave – not always open, but if you find it is, it’s a treat and a lovely way to end a weekend trip!  Well almost end, there was of course the obligatory stop at the AC area in Aguilar de Campoo to change waters on the way home of course.

Drinks and snacks at Mave